Dubai - Surreal Boom Town

Dubai is an anomaly within the Middle East, an oasis of calm, tolerance and multi-ethnic and religious cooperation (or at least co-existence) floating in a sea of chaos. Throughout the history of Islam there have been such "enlightened cities" - refuges of free thought, debate, science, and peaceful co-existence. Typically characterized by visionary leaders, multi-ethnic populations, and free market commerce the cities of Cordoba, Grenada, Fez, and Istanbul, all held similar positions at one time or another.This is of course a macro-level rose-colored interpretation of reality. There are certainly underlying social issues of significant import to cause concern yet nonetheless, Dubai is really an amazing place. The Ruler, Shaikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, lovingly referred to by most as "Shaikh Mo" is the driving force behind Dubai's incredible development. With the sweep of his hand he has erased the obstacles to foreign direct investment that plaque most of the Middle East. Companies can be 100% foreign owned. Foreigners can own freehold property. The practice of all religions is fully tolerated and the state has supported the construction of churches and temples. Alcohol is permitted for non-Muslims and the nightlife is vibrant.In the wake of the newly announced freehold property laws Dubai is currently undergoing an incredible construction boom. A popular urban legend states that more than 25% of the world's construction cranes are present in Dubai. There are a number of very ambitious off-shore land reclamation projects, the most prominent of these being the "The Palms" (there are three all shaped in the image of a palm trees and covered with million dollar homes) and the "Islands of the World" (an ambitious project to create 300 man-made islands that when viewed from space form an image of the world).For the young, upwardly mobile expatriate, Dubai Marina is the neighbourhood of choice. With its 100 story towers, beautiful marina and beach front setting it is destined to be the Monte Carlo of the Middle East. Marina Heights tower depicted above is my new abode.What I find most surreal about life in Dubai is that one can be nervously hurtling in an armored car through the detritus and chaos of Baghdad, Kabul, or Sana'a and then 2 hours later be dining at the Ritz Carlton. Too weird!

Dhows in the Musandam

Sunset at Taghazoute

The Renaissance of Fez, Morocco

Fez, Morocco is one of the great cities of Islam. A seat of learning, culture, science and enlightenment, Fez is also an architectural gem - a UNESCO world heritage site - that is experiencing an amazing renaissance. Interestingly, this renaissance is not the result of some centralized UN or state-sponsored program but instead the collective result of the individual efforts of a number of private citizens, Moroccan and foreign, who simply would not stand by and allow the great city to decay further. Since 1997 a significant number of the old houses of Fez have been restored to their original brilliance and many are now accessible to visitors as maisons d'hotes or quest houses.

The Strategic Goal - Liberalism or Democracy?

Morocco will shortly abolish the death penalty. To most observers it is counterintuitive that an Arab monarchy should take such a liberal stance. The recent furore over botched executions conducted by the US-supported “democratic” Government of Iraq brings this development into even sharper contrast and serves to further undermine the alleged value of “instilling democracy” as a strategic goal in the continuing fight against terror.Despite the efforts expended attempting to justify the invasion of Iraq on the basis of its alleged WMD programs and ties to Al Qaeda there should be no doubt the real motivating force behind the strategy was the belief that imposition of democracy in the heart of the Arab would produce greater liberalism. Unfortunately, those who designed the strategy confused the cause for the effect and the actual result has been far from the intent. The focus of effort was on form as opposed to function. Thus the “Bremer-fication” of Iraq wasted millions of dollars creating “democratic” institutions instead of promoting liberal principles and preserving liberal forces. In the end, we find illiberal forces have manipulated the democratic structures to their advantage.In cultures that reject the central organizing principle of democracy – the primacy of the individual – there may be an inherent rejection of democracy but there is not necessarily an inherent rejection of liberal thought. The history of Islam is replete with periods of enlightenment fuelled by the powerful leadership of benevolent despots who used power to encourage liberal thought and diversity without creating “democratic” vehicles for misuse by illiberal forces.Morocco and Jordan are both led by powerful monarchs. Both kings have religious and political legitimacy based on lineages that lead directly back to the Prophet Mohammed. Interestingly, King Mohammed VI and King Abdullah are also the most progressive and liberal rulers in the Arab world (one could also include Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai). And while they have strong security regimes that will repress any attempt by illiberal forces to manipulate the expanding freedoms they have granted their people they continue to broaden the liberal nature of the societies they lead. The US should be focusing more effort on the expansion of liberalism and strengthening liberal forces in the Middle East than the expansion of democracy.

The Wisdom of Khayyam

“There was a door to which I found no key: There was the veil through which I might not see.”Omar Khayyam 1048-1131Even ol' Omar seemed perturbed by the enigma of the world in which he lived - opaque and impenetrable. If one born at the pinnacle of the Golden Age of Islam in Naishipur was confronted with such a dilemma how is the Western mind to grasp even a kernal of understanding?